Aspen, Colorado


The words “Aspen, Colorado” invoke visions of graceful members of the glitterati skiing down the glistening slopes. Indeed, Aspen lives up to its reputation as a playground for the rich, beautiful and famous. Yet Aspen's glamour is matched only by its sense of irony. Where else would someone like Hunter S. Thompson, the late gonzo journalist, decide that he should run for county sheriff?  He didn't win, but he did receive many votes, and six months after his unfortunate death, friends and fans gathered at his home to shoot his ashes from a canyon, which was, by the way purchased by Johnny Depp. Such is the iconoclastic nature of the denizens of Aspen.


Needless to say, celebrity watching is a popular Aspen activity. However, they are usually unrecognizable on the ski slopes, and it's considered a faux pas to ask the locals to point them out, so don't even think of doing it! Aside from celeb watching, people actually cone to Aspen for the powder. They were not misinformed.
As one of the most versatile ski areas in North America, Aspen is composed of four mountains. A few years ago, economics forced mountain management to succumb to the "dark side," and allow the less glamorous snow sport enthusiasts, other wise known as snowboarders, to enjoy the Aspen experience. At first, there were a lot of  "there goes the neighborhood" type of comments, but eventually, people learned to accept their newly integrated ski area. Besides, Aspen is far too expensive to attract the grungier snowboard crowd, so it all worked out.


Now, the variety of terrain, as well as the open-minded attitude towards all snow sport enthusiasts makes Aspen the perfect destination for families, or groups with mixed abilities. Aspen is composed of four mountains, Aspen, Snowmass, Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk. Buttermilk is excellent for beginners. Thrill seekers will enjoy Aspen Mountain, also known as Ajax. Ajax rises majestically over downtown Aspen.  While its peaks offer spectacular views, most people love Ajax for its challenging steeps and bump runs.

When Aspen locals want to escape the tourists, they ski at Aspen Highland. This area has a great combination of steeps and groomed cruisers. Speaking of cruisers, anyone who likes them should visit Snowmass, where you’ll find wide-open slopes, as well as the daily “Noon Groom,” which is a freshly groomed run that re-opens at noon. These days, Snowmass is an exciting place to be. Construction on a new base village is underway, and the new Elk camp gondola holds eight people. At night, Aspen becomes a social playpen.

 Aspen, Lodging, Shopping, Dining and Nightlife

 Life is a cabaret at the Crystal Palace. Described as Second City meets Julia Childs, the Crystal Palace combines timely and hilarious satire with first class cuisine. Neither political party is safe from ridicule. Mead Metcalf, the owner of the Crystal Place grew up in New York City, and spent his childhood enjoying the New York City Cabarets. That should tell you something right there! While the humor is suggestive,  Metcalf does not allow four letter words, so go ahead and bring the kids. They've probably heard worse stuff at school. Aside from the skits, many people enjoy the décor. Since he opened the Crystal Place is 1960, Metcalf has collected a variety of chandeliers, glass ornaments and stained glass windows. The vintage Victorian ambience is part of its charm.

Actually, Victoriana, either real or faux, is very trendy in Aspen.  This makes sense, because back in the 1880s, Aspen was famous for being one of America's most prolific silver mining districts. At the time, everything that glittered in Aspen was not gold, but silver. So, when Jerome Wheeler, co-owner of Macy's, came to Aspen, he decided to finance two buildings. The Jerome became Aspen's first luxury hotel. Today, it still stands proud, and serves as a reminder of Aspen's first period of ostentatious opulence.

 During World War II, soldiers of the 10th Mountain Division, who were stationed in nearby Camp Hale, would visit the Hotel Jerome.
At the time, prohibition was in full force. However, the owners of the J Bar at the Jerome decided that these brave soldiers needed something to lift their spirits, so to speak. So prohibition be damned they created a drink called the Aspen Crud, which was a milkshake infused with bourbon.

Meanwhile, since our Mr. Wheeler had a building named after his first name, he needed one to honor his last name. As such, the Wheeler Opera House was built. When it opened in 1889, the Wheeler foreshadowed Aspen's future as an artist's town, as well as a snow sport paradise. Today, the Wheeler is a popular concert venue. Occasionally they show a variety of extreme ski and snowboard flicks.  During ski season, it is also home to the Aspen Writer's Foundation, which was formed in 1972. It sponsors a variety of conferences and workshops for writers. Perhaps one of the most interesting of these is Winter Words. Described as "après ski for the mind," Winter Words takes place at the Wheeler Opera House. Doors open at 5:30 PM. Past authors have included mystery writer James Patterson and Frank McCourt, author of Angela's Ashes. Presentations feature a reading, a question and answer period and a chance to purchase a signed copy of the book.

Dining
Aspen locals are actually pretty fond of Boogie's Diner, a 1950s retro establishment where you can do two things: eat and shop for jeans. Boogie's is owned by Lenny Boogie Weinglass, who was the character portrayed by Mickey Rourke in the movie, Diner. Boogie's is a great place to eat when all of the Aspen noveau cuisine gets to be a bit too much.

Little Annie's Eating House is another local's favorite. The red-checkered tablecloths give a hint to the type of food served. Like Boogie's Diner, this is home-style, unpretentious eating. While it's all well and good to visit these low- end eateries, nobody should visit Aspen without eating at one of the more elegant establishments. The heavenly bodies of Aspen locals and visitors are fond of Syzygy (pronounced Sizidgee). This odd word means the alignment of three or more heavenly bodies. Syzygy restaurant represents a heavenly alignment of great food, smooth jazz, unique drinks and beautiful people. Visitors who are still in awe of the views of Aspen Mountain choose the front room. Those who want to get up close and personal with musicians sit in one of the intimate booths in the jazz room. The menu is so varied that many people opt for the buffet.

Shopping

With 7,000 square feet of space, Gracy's is a consignment store on steroids. It's not cheap, but most things are less expensive than they would be in a traditional retail store.  So what do they have? A better question is "what don't they have?" It's a great place to find less expensive Bogner one-piece ski suits, or Native American jewelry designed by Colorado Senator Ben Nighthorse Campbell. On Monday nights, Gracy's holds belly-dancing classes.

Lodging

The Hotel Jerome is one of the most famous Aspen Colorado hotels. It is a member of The Leading Hotels Of The World. Because of its fascinating history, the Hotel Jerome has been included in the National Landmark Registry. Conde Nast Travel and Leisure considers the Jerome to be one of the top 100 Hotels in Continental US and Canada. This Aspen resort hotel is located at the base of Aspen Mountain.
http://www.hoteljerome.com/

If staying at a luxury ski-in/ski-out accommodations is important to you, you will want to book a room at the Little Nell, which is situated at the base of Aspen Mountain. Many people consider it to be Aspen’s premiere luxury resort. The Little Nell is a unique blend of country inn charm and grand hotel amenities. In addition to having a health club and Jacuzzi, the hotel concierge will make sure that your boots are warm and your skis are waxed.
http://www.littlenell.com/

Aspen Summers

Because of its premier trout fisheries on the Colorado River, Frying Pan River and Roaring Forks River, Aspen offers year-round fishing. You can enjoy a variety of water types, from shallow stretches perfect for wading, to deeper stretches better suited to float fishing. Rafters, kayaking enthusiasts and mountain bikers should definitely pay a visit to the Blazing Adventure Center in Snowmass http://www.blazingadventures.com/ Hot air ballooning is also available throughout the entire season at Aspen.

Jason Palat

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